Trekking to the Origins of the Earth (East)

Itinerary

A great 10-day adventurous and challenging trek.

Starting at the foot of the imposing Hrafntinnusker caldera over the Landmannalaugar Valley and ending at the fault of Eldgjá (East Itinerary) or to the impressive Tindfjöll mountains (West Itinerary), this short trek will lead you through a world of volcanic features – huge lava fields, mountains of rhyolite, basalt, obsidian and pumice, through hot springs and fumaroles, blast craters and fissures. You will discover dream-like, moss-filled valleys and drink from the freshest, clearest streams. And always watching over you are the majestic, shimmering icecaps, dormant volcanoes surrounded by vast black sand flats, crisscrossed by a myriad of melt-water streams.

Presenting no difficulty for good walkers, on most days each member carries only a light daypack as a 4x4 truck carries all personal belongings, heavy equipment, and supplies. Every day involves an average of 6-8 hours hiking. Accommodation, during the trek, is a combination of some nights in comfortable expedition tents and some nights in well-equipped mountain huts, all in beautiful locations. The isolation and severity of the landscape demand each tour member to be in good physical condition and that they actively participate in the trip i.e. the group must work together to set up camp, prepare food etc. This trek is designed for those who wish to fully experience unspoiled nature at its best and to see what they may never even have dreamed still existed.

 

Day 1

Reykjavik – Ljósártungur – Hvanngíl

Early morning rendezvous at 7:30 AM with your guide in hiking outfit at BSI Reykjavik Central Bus station with your duffle bag and your daypack ready on your shoulder. (Do not forget  to take along with you your hiking sandals for a first river crossing)
Departure for three hours by road through prairies, then on the South Fjallabak trail which slowly climbs up to the highlands through pasturelands moors and mossy lava fields. One can admire here the alignment of mountain ranges, all perfectly parallel and aligned in the same direction: the direction of the mid-Atlantic ridge that crosses Iceland from North to South enjoying a spectacular view of three major ice caps: Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull and Tíndafjallajökull.

Drive: 1h30 driving on road – 1h30 driving on dirt road

Day 2

Mælifellssandur

We cross the sand of Mælifellssandur. In the middle of this strange black flatness stands the solitary cone of Mælifell, covered in fluorescent green-colored moss. We are able to explore the extraordinary landscapes between the southern flank of the Torfajökull caldera and the mighty dome of the Mýrdalsjökull icecap. Beneath this huge sheet of ice lies Katla, another of Iceland’s angriest volcanoes. She last erupted in 1918 and is long overdue for another eruption.

Trekking: 5 hours – ca. 15 km (9 miles) – Alt. 550 to 563 m (1800 to 1850 feet)

Day 3

Strútslaug – Lake Hólmsárlón

Proceed to the shores of the long and narrow Hólmsárlón Lake. We reach the place nicknamed the red baptismal fountain. The waterfalls at the end of the turquoise colored lake plunging into the red crater is a sight to behold. Of course, we cannot resist taking a bath in Strútslaug, a nearby, natural hot spring pool.

Trekking: 6-7 hours – ca. 19 km (12 miles) – Alt. 563 to 563 m (1850 to 1850 feet)

Day 4

Strútur – Alftavötn 

We follow the fault of Eldgjá, the longest eruptive fissure on earth, today covered by moss and crossed by a clear stream. As large as the Laki eruption was, it was exceeded by Iceland’s A.D. 934-940 Eldgjá eruption, which occurred in the same mountainous region. During the six years that this eruption was active, lava erupted from several vents along a discontinuous 75-km-long (47-mile-long) fissure system and buried more than 781 square km (302 square miles) of southern Iceland. Fortunately, huge eruptions like those at Eldgjá and Laki are very unusual; otherwise, life as we know it would probably not be. Though the hazards posed by lava flows and volcanic gas here on the “Big” Island are understandably important to us, they are still tiny in comparison to what our big blue planet is capable of.

Trekking: 6-7 hours – ca. 22 km (14 miles) – Alt. 563 to 444 m (1850 to 1460 feet)

Day 5

Alftavötn – Holaskjol

After wandering the soft landscape of Álftavötn, the “lakes of the swans”, in a short and beautiful walk we join the trail of Fjallabak North at Hólaskjól in the pastures of the Skaftá district, bordering the Skaftá river and the enormous lava fields of Laki. Appreciate resting day in the beautiful surrounding of Holaskjol

Trekking: 2-3 hours – ca. 8 km (5 miles) – Alt. 444 to 330 m (1460 to 1080 feet)

Day 6

Eldgjá – Öxnatindar

We walk again throughout the Eldgjá break, “throat of fire”, the biggest eruption break on our planet. Despite all these superlatives, tiny little landscapes are comfortable: springs, streams of clear water, small Zen gardens…We reach the heavy Skaftá and its powerful and worrisome waters. On the other side lies the endless lava of Laki, which is the largest lava emission of historical times (1783-1785).

Trekking: 5-6 hours – ca. 16 km (10 miles) – Alt. 330 to 450 m (1080 to 1480 feet)

Day 7

Lakagigar cratersSkaftá – Sveinstindur

We reach Sveinstindur, the first peak of the divided chain of Fögrufjöll, with its conical black and green volcanoes. An easy ascent of Mount Sveinstindur is rewarded by a  fabulous panoramic view. To the north and the mighty Vatnajökull the fabulous jade green narrow lake of Langisjór. At the South lie the strange lava fields of Laki, covered with green fluorescent moss, and partly flooded by the overflows of Skaftá.

Trekking: 5-6 hours – ca. 18 km (11 miles) – Alt. 450 to 600 m (1480 to 1970 feet)

Day 8

 Langisjór and Fagrifjöll

Along Langisjór and up on easy hills we follow the narrow ridge of the Fagrifjöll. Their name means the beautiful mountains. Knowing the sobriety of the Icelandic language, they must be on to deserve such an appellation. We are moving on the narrow green and black backs of Fagrifjöll, sometimes on the shore of the lake, sometimes the easiest buttes.

Trekking: 7-8 hours – ca. 20 km (12 miles) – Alt. 600 to 600 m (1970 to 1970 feet)

Day 9

Grænafjallsgarður – Holaskjol

We leave Mount Sveinstindur and we progress westwards on the extensive sand along a black and green valley bordered by the imposing palagonite alignments of Grænnafjallsgarður and Gréttir to reach first by walking, then with the help of our jeep the junction with the track of Northern Fjallabak

4-5 hours – ca. 10 km (6 miles) – Alt. 600 to 700 m (1970 to 2300 feet)

Day 10

Back to Reykjavik and civilization

We return to Reykjavik Central bus station 1) either with one of our larger vehicles along the South Coast via Vík-i-Myrdal and arrive around 5 pm. 2) or, with the regular Mountain bus via Landmannalaugar and a late arrival in the capital around 7 pm, or even later if you decide to stop at Landmannalaugar for a few hours.

Currently we can not specify in advance what route will be chosen to return to Reykjavik. But we will try to answer you before the trip if you need this information

Rates in 2019

The International Airport is located outside of Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital city, in the southwest of the country. It is served by many international airlines, including some discount airlines such as Easyjet from countries all over Europe, Canada, and the United States.

A regular shuttle bus service, which is scheduled to meet each flight, transfers visitors to the city.

Meeting point for the trek is at Reykjavik Central Bus Station. Transfer to the starting point of the trek is by regular bus.

Return:

By the regular Mountain bus  (Dep.12:30) it takes approximatively 7 hours to reach Reykjavik (Arr.19:35) via Landmannalaugar with a 2-hour stopover (Arr.13:30/ Dep.15:30) – You have the option to extend this stopover in Landmannalauagar by taking another bus later in the day at 17:30 or at 20:00.

By regular Mountain bus from Holaskjol (Dep.10: 35 am), it takes approximatively 9 hours  to reach Reykjavik (Arr.19:35) through Eldgjá with 1h15 min stopover (Arr.11:00/  Dep.12:15)  and Landmannalaugar with a 2 hours stopover (Arr.13:30/ Dep.15:30) – You have the option to extend this stopover in Landmannalauagar by taking another bus later in the day at 17:30 or at 20:00.

 
  • English speaking guide
  • Bus transfers to and from the mountains
  • Transport of luggage, supplies, and equipment by 4×4 assistant vehicle
  • Accommodation in mountain huts and camps
  • Full board from lunch day 1 to last day lunch
 
  • Flights to/from Iceland
  • Transfers from/to airport
  • Accommodation and meals in Reykjavík
  • A taxi ride from your hotel to  Reykjavik meeting point day 1
  • A taxi ride from Reykjavik Central bus station to your hotel after returning from the trek
  • Showers in the huts
  • Sleeping Bag
  • Drinks and other personal expenses
  • Additional small group surcharge below 6 participants
 
  • Difficulty level: 2-3 Moderate
  • Average walking per day: ca. 15-16 km (9-10 miles)
  • Total walking distance:  ca.48 km (30 miles) / 24 hours walk (4-day version)
  • Total walking distance:  ca.62 km (39 miles) / 36 hours walk (6-day version)
  • Altitude between: 135 m and 600 m (440-1970 feet)
  • Positive gradients: ca.1200 m (ca.3900 feet)
  • Downhill gradients: ca.1000 m (ca.3280 feet)

Itinerary and security: the day by day program can be modified or even reversed. However, these changes are rather rare for reasons of safety due to natural phenomena: volcanism, early or late snowfall, bad weather, flooding rivers, exceptionally unfavorable weather … The guide knows the terrain well and is sole master in interpreting the whims of all-powerful nature on this volcanic earth under these high latitudes, and to make the necessary decisions. 

Composition of the group: In general, the participants of our trips come from several countries: French speaking from France, Switzerland, Belgium and Quebec but also English speaking people from Great Britain, Ireland, United States (Democratic trending), Australians, New Zealanders or other nations who know how to express themselves in English like Scandinavians, Germans, sometimes Japanese or Russians, and even sometimes Icelanders.
Your Icelandic or French guide is fluent in French and English and masters very well at least one other European language. Traveling with Fjallabak can represent a unique opportunity to meet, exchange ideas and socialize with companions from other countries than yours that you might otherwise never have approached. A unique opportunity to make friends from all around the world and twist the neck to certain prejudices and misconceptions inked

Accommodation: sleeping bag (your own) in mountain refuges and huts: Bunks with comfortable mattresses. Running water and kitchen in the shelter, but the toilets and sinks are usually outside, a few yards in a small building apart. Warm hot showers with charge are available in some huts. If you want more privacy during the night while we sleep, we offer you the possibility of sleeping in tents that we provide, please notify us in advance. On the treks where camping nights are planned, the camps are made up of double tents (or single on request) with a comfortable and insulated mattress and a large equipped mess tent.Electricity: take enough batteries for your camera because you will not often be able to recharge batteries in the huts. Also take a normal charger (220v for European standard outlets) as there are some shelter that have electricity. 

Food: We pride ourselves for providing the best cuisine in the highlands! Breakfast is Scandinavian style, with muesli, breads, jams, smoked fish, charcuterie and cheese. The picnics can be a bit repetitive after a week (we are in Iceland), with a variety of sandwiches, smoked meats and fish, excellent local cheeses, green salad, tomatoes and cucumbers. Dinners, varied and often excellent, include fish and lamb dishes, served with pasta, rice or potatoes, vegetables and a green salad.
However, vegans will have to supplement their luggage even though we can accommodate their needs.
For conviviality, but without obligation, you can bring with you a specialty of your country as well as a good bottle of alcohol.
Accommodation during the trek: Sleeping bag accommodation in mountain huts and huts (usually a comfortable and mixed lodging) and according to the itinerary and the conditions, at the peak of the season a few nights might be spent in spacious double tents equipped with comfortable mattresses. Showers are available in some huts, not all.

Special diets: It is essential that vegetarians specify what is banned from their menu, such as those suffering from food allergies (lactose, gluten, etc.). It is important that you advise us of your special food requirements at the time of booking. If the list is long or there is danger with certain allergies, please send us the details by mail. so that the team of our warehouse/storage can take this into account in the preparation of food. Your guide will be aware of your plan, but it does not necessarily mean that he is a specialist in that matter, so it’s up to you to tell him about it at the beginning of the journey when preparing the first meal! It is also up to you to control at each meal what suits you.

Each day a 4×4 vehicle carries the luggage and the food from hut to hut. We do not see this vehicle during the day, because it takes tracks that we rarely encounter. Someone feeling tired one day can make the trip with the driver (often a friendly guide of our team) which will make him discover another aspect of the highlands. A 4×4 assistance vehicle carries the luggage, food supplies and equipment between shelters and camps. We do not see this vehicle during the day, because it takes tracks that we rarely encounter. Someone feeling tired one day can make the trip with the driver (often a friendly guide of our team) which will make him discover another aspect of the highlands. Our carbon impact is lower because the kilometric average of the vehicle does not exceed 30km / day.

Preparation of the trip and notes: This is an assisted hut to hut trekking. At the peak of the season, we might camp for a night or two. The level of walking is moderate to sustained. You only carry a light bag containing what you need for the day. This trek does not present any serious difficulty for people in good physical shape having at least some experience of long walks in the mountains. An experienced guide leads the trek. This trek passes through totally desert areas. Most of the walking is off-trail, with ever-changing terrain conditions. Therefore, sturdy hiking shoes that fit well your feet are a must. Most days involve river crossing, so it is essential not to forget your sandals. See our kits list for more information. You hike 6-7 hours per day, on average, but it can be longer, depending on the weather, the average level of the group. The maximum altitude does not rise more than 1000m. The change of altitude for most days does not exceed 300 m.

Participation: An experienced Icelandic guide leads the trek. As we are not in Nepal but in Iceland, it is expected that the members of the group lend a helping hand to their guide in the preparation of meals, washing the dishes, cleaning the floors before leaving the huts, setting up and taking down the tents when camping. Once in the mountains, the group becomes an independent entity. Fellowship, teamwork and forged friendships add much to the richness of each person’s experience.

You’ll need to bring comfortable and adequate clothing to protect you from cold and wet weather, such as polypropylene, Capilene, or pile. Wool and wool/synthetic blends are also suitable – though wool, if wet, dries slowly compared to synthetic fabrics. We discourage the use of cotton in wet conditions it dries very slowly. When camping, tents are provided. You will be responsible for bringing your mattress and sleeping bag.

When layering, the innermost layer should be long underwear. The middle layer can be a synthetic turtleneck or wool shirt, and pants. The outermost layer must be a breathable waterproof jacket such as a good quality Gore-Tex wind/rain parka and over-pants.
For quantities for each item listed, use your own judgment, based on the expected weather conditions and overall packing/weight restrictions for your luggage.

  • Regular underwear. Synthetics are easier to wash and dry
  • Synthetic thermal underwear
  • Long-sleeved, synthetic or wool shirt
  • Short-sleeved synthetic or cotton/synthetic T-shirts
  • Medium-weight synthetic fleece sweater or jacket
  • Full-length pants, quick-drying synthetic fabric
  • Down jacket from mid-August to September (optional)
  • Hiking shorts, quick-drying synthetic fabric
  • Pile/fleece pants, ideal for around the camp
  • Sun & rain hat
  • Wool hat
  • Gloves (wool or pile)
  • Waterproofed shell gloves
  • Medium weight synthetic socks
  • Gore-Tex rain/wind parka
  • Gore-Tex rain/wind pants
  • Hiking boots, medium-weight, all leather, with padded ankle, good arch support, and a lug sole traction. Your hiking boots should be waterproof, well broken in, and suitable for rocky terrain or possibly snow.
  • Comfortables shoes to wear when not hiking (optional) Teva-type sandals for river-crossings. Absolutely recommended! Gaiters. 


Travel Accessories

  • Comfortable sleeping bag +10°C to –10°C which can be opened all the way
  • Cotton sheet for hut’s mattress
  • Pillow if you can’t sleep without one (optional)
  • Swimsuit and towel for hot spring bathing and swimming pool
  • 1-to-2 liters capacity unbreakable water bottle or thermos
  • Headlamp or small flashlight with spare batteries (from August only)
  • Swiss Army-type pocket knife (Must be kept in a duffle bag, not in hand luggage, when flying !)
  • Toiletry kit—soap, toothbrush, and so on.
  • Moisturizing Lotion. (The air in Iceland is very dry)
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunglasses. Highly recommended!
  • Spare pair of prescription glasses, prescription sunglasses, or contact lenses (but not only lenses, as wind-blown dust can make them very uncomfortable)
  • Sunscreen and lip protection (The sun in Iceland is much more intense than you probably imagine)
  • Personal first aid kit
  • Netting hood

Optional Travel Accessories

  • Hiking poles. Highly recommended
  • Binoculars
  • Repair kit with needle, thread, and safety pins
  • Reading and writing material
  • Your favorite snack food such as raisins or chocolate
  • Protein supplements for vegetarian
  • 1 or 2 good bottles of wine or a bottle of something stronger
  • Jul 21 – Jul 30, 2019
  • Aug 11 – Aug 20, 2019